WOMEN'S AND MEN'S SPRING/SUMMER 2027 SHOW COLLECTION
MILAN, SEPTEMBER 2026
WOMEN'S AND MEN'S SPRING/SUMMER 2027 COLLECTION
Perfection is fragile. It is rarely, if ever, a permanent condition, which is probably why imperfection is so charming, so seductive, so inviting, so dynamic.
In his new JIL SANDER outing, Simone Bellotti continues perverting the house codes while revering them. Contradictions get him going. “Creating a collection is like going to therapy,” he says. “You take things apart to understand what you want to keep. Then you put them back together.”
The movement comes in waves: conceding and receding. The point of departure is the idea of the uniform, so deeply embedded in the JIL SANDER language: rigorous, precise, controlled, an expression of order and power. Interferences soon appear, like question marks within the system: they unbalance it and move things forward. The uniform becomes vulnerable. And vulnerability, in turn, becomes the uniform.
The rhythm is disruptive and precise: construction, deconstruction, reconstruction. Tailoring provides the discipline from which everything starts, only to be progressively distorted. Lines shift, folds twist around the body, layers contradict one another; volumes grow while simultaneously tightening. As the wave rises, restraint becomes increasingly undone. Knitwear crumples, hemlines shorten, pale dresses wrinkle and gather, ballooning away from the body into improbable volumes and a monumental airiness. Manipulation brings instinct where reasoning was the rule; excess, too, precisely where it perhaps should not belong.